" In a tree-shaded pasture, seventeen adult tortoises randomly stood around. As I fed them spinach leaves sold by an opportune vendor, they tolerated my gentle strokes to their boney skullcaps and the warm black skin on their necks. It was as thin and delicate as the skin on a grandmother’s hand. Their obsidian black eyes gleamed with deep wisdom and patience—Dalai Lamas on the half shell. Back "

― Kristine K. Stevens , If Your Dream Doesn't Scare You, It Isn't Big Enough: A Solo Journey Around the World